One way to distinguish high quality from cheap shirts is the fabric used. A fine weave and medium-thickness material that resists wrinkles while remaining comfortable against your skin are all hallmarks of excellence in clothing design.
Mother of Pearl buttons are an indicator of quality and add an elegant, stunning aesthetic that cannot be replicated with plastic buttons. Furthermore, quality buttons will feature heat-resistant coatings to protect them against ironing.
Fabric
When purchasing an expensive shirt, fabric quality should always be of top concern. High-end fabrics feature luxurious materials and designs that create striking aesthetics; additionally, they wash well without shrinkage or fading issues – these may be more expensive, but they are definitely worth your while!
The quality of fabric determines how comfortable a piece will feel to wear, so we must consider the fineness of the yarn woven into it and its thickness when selecting the material. Thin fabrics tend to crease more quickly than thicker fabrics; we advise choosing medium-thickness fabric for maximum comfort and longevity.
An additional factor affecting shirt prices is their source. Some fabrics that require shipping may not be readily available locally and, therefore, add expense.
Once you understand the value of a quality shirt, the next step is deciding on which material best meets your needs. Cotton or linen fabrics offer light airiness while polyester or twill provides durability – and gelato has something suitable for everyone – crafted specifically to order just for you! We make each shirt after you place an order, so it will always be made especially for you.
Stitching
Stitching quality in a shirt is an integral component of its quality. A high stitch count, excellent thread tension, and no loose or chain stitches should define quality garments; tight stitching so seam edges won’t show is also ideal as this ensures its longevity by not quickly catching and breaking on sharp objects.
Single-needle stitching on the side seams is one of the hallmarks of quality shirtmaking; this technique creates a tight, elegant seam that ensures there will be no puckering after washing the shirt. Cheaper versions often utilize twin-needle stitching, which lacks precision and has less visual appeal.
Mother-of-pearl buttons are another hallmark of a great shirt. Not only are they heat resistant and have an elegant sheen, but they will last for years if properly cared for compared to plastic alternatives, which melt when touched by hot irons; moreover, these natural mother-of-pearl buttons add no value or enhance their look as time progresses whereas their lifespan diminishes rapidly over time.
A quality shirt should have buttons stitched on securely with either an “x” stitch or bar tacks (for two-hole buttons). Lower-end RTW shirts often sew buttonholes before cutting them, leaving unsightly threads inside of them. A high-end custom shirt, however, will stitch buttonholes securely by hand before having them cut after sewing to prevent the unraveling of threads and unraveling threads on the inside of it.
Additionally, a shirt should have matching side seams and sleeve seams to create an elegant and streamlined appearance. Most ready-to-wear shirts stitch their sleeves together using the same process as the rest of their shirt; this makes an unfinished appearance. A good quality shirt may feature hand-sewn sleeve heads so it drapes comfortably across the arm; this feature can only be found among luxury and custom bespoke shirts.
Pattern Matching
Pattern matching is an integral aspect of garment sewing and one of the primary ways it shows how well-crafted clothing is. A well-made shirt should never exhibit seams that do not align perfectly, which requires considerable skill and consideration of fabric quality.
There are three basic approaches for pattern matching, each depending on the size and complexity of your fabric pattern. A simple stripe or small-scale print may not require extra yardage; however, large-scale plaid patterns will need extra fabric so all elements line up correctly. When selecting an appropriate way for your fabric it’s also helpful to anchor its pieces to its paper pattern by placing adjacent fabric pieces close together while aligning their designs on paper – something which may help with both processes.
Quality patterns will be designed to indicate whether they’re appropriate for stripes and other marks and provide some direction as to the additional fabric you should purchase when matching plaids, lines, and large-scale prints. Many pattern companies recommend buying an extra half yard or half a meter of cloth when trying to match plaids, stripes, and large images, but it will depend on both the fabric type and the pattern itself.
Directional fabrics can be incredibly challenging to work with, so it is advisable to read the label to ascertain if their pattern is directional. If there is a dominant direction to its pattern placement, extra care must be taken when placing this fabric in an ensemble. A swirling spiral print would work beautifully in pocket squares or neckties but not on dress shirts due to looking “unfinished.”
If you’re working with striped fabric, be sure all of its stripes line up at collar points and down the center front placket of the shirt placket. Horizontal stripes should align seamlessly, while vertical ones should be spaced evenly. Likewise, if your fabric features paisley patterns, make sure they match across the back yoke and down the center front of the placket of the shirt.
Collars
Shirt collars provide structure to clothing, and their stiffness depends on fabric type, design, and how it’s worn. In the past, collars were often starched heavily to stand up straight; today, this practice has lessened. Additionally, collars come in an assortment of styles and sizes so that you can select the one best suited to you.
Expensive shirts often boast higher collars with wider spreads than their cheaper counterparts due to being made of heavier fabrics like flannel or canvas, which help the collar retain its shape and stiffness. Furthermore, wider spreads permit larger tie knots for an official appearance, while narrower ones may be worn more casually with or without neckties.
Some shirts also feature memorable eyelet collar holes designed to accommodate pins, clips, or bars used as tie-knotting accessories. These pins, hooks, or bars help close any space between collar points and elevate knotted ties, as well as support traditional collar styles like spearpoint collars (spearpoint), tab collars (tab), and button-down collars (button down) in terms of knotted tie height. Although less formal than spread-out point collars (see spread-out point collar), such accessories should only be used if necessary (- see spread-out point collar).
A quality collar should appear clean and symmetrical with straight stitching around its edges and also flexible enough to form into natural circles when unbuttoning or tied up.
Point collars are the go-to choice when it comes to dress shirts, as they look good when worn both with or without a tie. Other popular options are spread collars (which can become unnecessarily casual without proper fitting) and the more formal rounded collar, which may look outdated without appropriate execution.
Unfused collars are often featured on high-quality custom shirts, providing stiffer collars that can look stunning when done well. Unfortunately, however, these require more skill to achieve flawlessly; any mistakes could ruin an otherwise great shirt!
